A message from your host!


We feel honoured by your visit and hope that it will be an opportunity for you to better understand our way of life, habits and culture. Hopefully, if the language barrier and lack of time are not too much of an obstacle, we will be happy to answer your questions, welcome you to our modest homes and exchange cultural information with you. You wish to get to know us, but we too have a lot to learn about your way of life and habits, that sometimes seems just as strange to us as some of ours to you.

However, the sudden influx of tourists may have negative effects on our villages because many of our foreign guests are not aware of our sometimes complex customs. Certain attitudes or behaviours considered normal by you, may be considered shocking here and create problems and misunderstandings on both sides. This is why we would like to let you know a few basic rules.

You sometimes talk about “ethic tourism”, we prefer to talk about mutual respect. (See photo above)
  1. Drug consumption is forbidden here, we want to protect our youth from this terrible habit.

  2. Touching sacred objects, walking through sacred places is forbidden and offends us. Please, seek information.

  3. Being badly dressed, dirty or partly undressed is considered aggressive and disrespectful.

  4. Drinking in excess, speaking in a loud voice or shouting is considered aggressive.

  5. Public display of affection and kissing are considered immodest and offending behaviour.

  6. Ask permission before taking pictures of people, we will be happy to grant it.

  7. Do not buy antiques or ancient jewellery from local families: you would rob them of their heritage and history.

  8. Do not give money if money is not asked.

  9. Do not give to children, this would encourage begging. Prefer presents to parents or elders and thank them for their hospitality.

  10. The best way to thank us is to buy recently made handicrafts: although cheap for you they represent a lot of money for us.

  11. Always offer to pay if a villager provides a meal or accommodation. - Always announce yourself before entering a house or a property, we will be happy to let you in.
    Do not encourage prostitution.

We thank you in anticipation and wish you a most pleasant stay!

Read more...

Sapa - Colorful Land!


Area: 678,6 sq. km
Population: 38,200 habitants
Ethnic minority Group: H'mong, Tay, Zao, Zay, Xa Pho, Viet (Kinh) People
Townlet: Sapa
Communes: Ban Khoang, Ta Giang Phinh, Trung Chai, Ta Phin, Sa Pa, San Sa Ho, Ban Phung, Lao Chai, Hau Thao, Thanh Kim, Ta Van, Su Pan, Suoi Thau, Ban Ho, Thanh Phu, Nam Sai, Nam Cang.


Sa Pa History
The Sa Pa plateau was identified in 1901 during the first topographic plotting of the area. A military post was built in 1903. In 1906 the first westerner to settle in Cha Pa, named Mr. Miéville, worked with the department of agriculture. The number of French permanent civilian residents was never very high, only twenty odd people in 1942, plus a small colony of English-speaking protestants of unknown origin.


Originally, Cha Pa was created for medical purposes: the bracing climate of Cha Pa was beneficial to westerners exhausted by a long stay in Vietnam, especially «people with chlorosis, post-infectious anaemia, previous history of malaria, and a whole array of neurotics: people with neurasthenia, phobia, overworked people or hypochondriac women». Certain diseases, such as «chronic bronchitis with associated emphysema or asthma and certain skin diseases» could also be cured. The military sanatorium, completed in 1913, was built on the hill on which the municipal cistern and its pumping station now stand.


As of 1914, the main purpose of the civil authorities was to create in Tonkin a veritable summer capital in the mountains. In the summer of 1914, the offices of all the local services were moved from Hanoi to Cha Pa. The works had started in 1912, the tourist office was created in 1917 and in 1925, there were already 80 kilometres of footpaths offering a great variety of hiking trips. The forestry service planted evergreens, some of which are still standing today. In 1922 the building of the most sumptuous hotel in the station, the Résidence du Tonkin started on «governor’s hill».


In 1909, thanks to Miéville, the « Cha Pa Hotel » was inaugurated to the east of the station on the road to Lao Cai, while the «Fan Si Pan» hotel was only built in 1924. The « Métropole », a luxury hotel with 50 rooms and ten suites sited at the foot of the Ham Rong on the bank of the lake, was inaugurated in 1932. The «Hôtel du Centre», a more modest establishment, was built in1937.


The first villas were built in 1918 by the Hong Hai Coal Board and by the Haïphong cement factory (at the place where the Victoria Hotel now stands). A hundred or so other villas were built between 1920 and 1940 on neighbouring land given for free, some specimens of which can still be seen. In the lower area are located the private villas, administrative buildings and hotels. In the higher area, one finds the big military sanatorium and the governor ‘s summer palace. The church was built in 1934, followed by a protestant temple sitting on the hill overlooking the road to Cat Cat. By the end of the 1930s, Cha Pa had reached its peak and over a thousand colonials went there to rest and have fun. Until the mid-40s, Cha Pa was to remain the fashionable mountain resort of the Hanoi colonial society.


In order to meet the increasing demand for food, the local authorities created agricultural stations. The aim of these stations was to feed the summer visitors and « put an end to the typical problem of hotels where bread is wanting because a party of six had the unfortunate idea of turning up without sending a telegram two days earlier ». Vietnamese people launched into agricultural production, providing the town with « all sorts of foods »... The Taphin estate produced pork, chicken, vegetables, fresh fruit, jam, milk, potatoes, cheese and… wine. Trade was flourishing in the hands of Chinese people and Vietnamese from the delta area.


The growth of Cha Pa was an incentive to modernisation and between 1924 and 1927 the public authorities had it equipped with running water, a sewage system and an electricity network supplied by a power station built on the Cat Cat waterfall, whose renovated buildings are still in operation, as well as a telegraph and telephone network. In 1942, untypically for such a small place, a complete town plan of Sa Pa was drawn, which included over 400 plots of building land.
In February 1947, the Viet Minh attacked Cha Pa and destroyed the military installations and part of the hotels (among which the Métropole) as well as villas. In March, the Foreign Legion occupied Cha Pa again until October 1949 when the French troops left the region for good. In March 1952, the French headquarters ordered the air force to bomb the town. The Governor’s Palace, the sanatorium complex, public buildings and most of the villas were destroyed. The Vietnamese population fled the ruined town and did not return until the early sixties. Not until the early 1990s did Sa Pa start developing again.


Ethnics

The population of the Lào Cai province is a mosaic of ethnic groups. An incredible variety of peoples, some of them unique to Vietnam, are found on a relatively small area.
In fact, visitors can meet 24 ethnic groups, each with its own language, culture and traditions. This cultural wealth is explained by the diversity of landscapes and of land available for farming. History also offers clues as to why the highlands in the Lào Cai province served as a refuge for certain ethnic groups during political unrest like the Taiping rebellion in 19th-century China.The seven most numerous ethnic groups in the Lào Cai province account for over 90% of the whole population. The following groups are found: the Kinh (the true Vietnamese) 35%, the Hmong 22%, the Tay 14%, the Dao (Mien) 13%, the Thai 9%, the Nung 4.5% and the Giay 4.3%. The other ethnic groups: the Phula, Hani, Latis, Tu Di, Pin Tao, Tu Lao, Pa Di, Sapho, Lolo and the Xa Mang are sometimes represented only by a few villages and a few hundred individuals. (excerpt from Sapa tourism department)


Read more...

The breathtaking scenery in the northern highlands

Terracefield in Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai province, North Vietnam

Read more...

Some Suggestions for Hue

Eating/Drinking:

  • No.3 Le Loi(local)
  • Huong Giang: 51 Le Loi
  • Mandarin Café: Backpackers fare, run by a photographer, his photos are for sale here and are available as post cards, Hung Vuong
  • Song Huong Floating Restaurant: 3-2 Park, on the river near Le Loi (local)
  • Paradise Garden: Nguyen Dinh Chieu (small st. in front of the Morin Hotel)
  • DMZ Bar: 44 Le Loi(back packer style bar)
  • Ly Lan: N.o1 Nguyen Hue, snake wine bar
  • An Dinh Palace: 97 Phan Dinh Phung & 78A Nguyen Hue (2 entry gates)
  • Club Garden: 12 Vo Thi Sau
  • Mai Huong Cafe: 14 Nguyen Tri Phuong
  • Lach Thanh , Lac Thien (local, south gate side near the river)

Sightseeing:

  • There are 11 tombs. Hire a motorbike, or bicycle and head off on an adventure all your own.
  • Cycle to Thuan An Beach, one of the best rides you will do approx. 16km each way
  • Cyclo tour 25,000VND/hr Town/Hen Island fishing village (agree on price first)
  • Dong Ba Market: Tran Hung Dao, citadel side of town on the river.
  • Ho Chi Minh Museum: 7 Le Loi, Mon-Sat, Uncle Ho’s life as a student in Hue
  • Imperial Museum: 3 Le Truc, daily 6.30am-5.30pm
  • One of Uncle Ho’s houses Duong No Village, 6km along beach rd.

Shop till you drop!!

  • Hue is the home of the Poetry /Conical Hat, the purple ribbon is the preferred colour, the colour of romance & Hue
  • Inexpensive Photographs: the Mandarin Café , Hung Vuong

Kick back & Relax

  • Watch the sunset on the Perfume River
  • Sit in a riverside coffee stall, on the Citadel side.
  • Venture down Han Thuyen with all the oil laps near the Citadel, try the local brew
  • Swimming Pool Huong Giang Hotel, 51 Le Loi
  • No. 1 Nguyen Hue: snake wine bar, good for all ailments

Other Stuff:

  • Vietcombank: Hoang Hoa Tham
  • ATM: just off the car next to the Morin hotel.
  • GPO: Hoang Hoa Tham
  • E-mail: Hung Vuong , back-packer’s strip


Read more...

HUE - The Ancient Capital



Hue teems with architectural masterpieces including citadels, royal palaces, mausoleums and pagodas of the Nguyen Dynasties (17-19th century) on the banks of the perfume river. Hue is located on a narrow delta on the central coast and is bordered by mountains to the west and by sea to the east. Hue records the highest rainfall in all of Vietnam. The wet season starts in August and doesn’t finish until January, though the best time to visit Hue is between November and April.

A BRIEF HISTORY:
Hue was part of the Champa Kingdom until 1306, when territory north of Da Nang was exchanged for the hand of a Vietnamese Princess, under the terms of a peace treaty. In 1802, Emperor Gia Long of the Nguyen Dynasty moved the capital from Vietnam when Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in 1945; two years later a huge fire swept through the city & destroyed many of its wooden temples & palaces.
From the early 20th century, the city was embroiled in social & political unrest led by the anti-colonialists. In 1963, troops fired on 1000’s of Buddhists peacefully demonstrating against the persecution of the Buddhist majority by the southern Catholic regime of President Ngo Dinh Diem. Protests escalated into a series of self-immolations by monks & nuns, and the army moved against them & arrested the majority of the Buddhist clergy. The 1968 Tet Offensive ripped the city apart again when the revolutionaries captured & held the city for 25 days. They were armed with lists of names, and searched out government personnel & sympathizers of the southern regime. Later, nearly 3000 bodies were found in mass graves around the city.
The city received a boost when UNESCO listed Hue as a world heritage site in 1993.

SIGHTS:

The Citadel – Built in the 19th century during Emperor Gia Long’s reign, this is a small, self-contained city of about 5.2 sq km built in accordance with ancient tradition whereby an auspicious location was chosen to preserve the all-important harmony between the emperor and his subjects, heaven and earth, man and nature. The whole area is enclosed within 7 metres high, 20 metre thick brick and earth walls built with the help of French engineers, and encircled by a moat and canal. Within the outer wall lies the Imperial City and inside, the Forbidden City, the former living quarters of the imperial family. The citadel’s massive, 10 km long perimeter wall has survived intact, and has its most prominent feature, the flag tower which dominates the southern battlements. The tower is three brick terraces topped with a flagpole first erected in 1807, where the yellow starred Viet Cong flag flew briefly during the 1968 Tet Offensive. 10 gates pierce the citadel wall and if entering through the Ngan gate, there are the 9 sacred cannons, which were cast in the early 19th century of bronze. The cannons represent the four seasons and five ritual elements (earth, fire, metal, wood and water); originally they stood in front of Ngo Mon gate, symbolising the citadel’s guardian spirits.

The Imperial City – Three walled enclosures make up Hue’s Imperial City: Hoang Thanh (yellow Enclosure) and Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Purple City) are enclosed within the all encompassing Kinh Thanh (the exterior enclosure). Hoang Thanh (Yellow Enclosure) is the middle wall enclosing the imperial city and its palaces, temples and flower gardens. Most of what visitors see tody is found within the Hoang Thanh or Yellow Enclosure; other areas were destroyed during the Tet Offensive of 1968.

The Forbidden Purple City – The ten-hectare city, enclosed by a low wall, was reserved for residential palaces, living quarters of the state physician and nine ranks of royal concubines, plus kitchens and pleasure pavilions. Many of thee buildings were destroyed in the 1947 fire, leaving most of the Forbidden Purple City as open ground, a “mood piece”, haunted by fragments of wall and overgrown terraces.

Imperial Tombs – more than simple graves, Hue royal tombs are great artworks of architecture with decorations inspired by the Oriental spirit and were constructed on the banks of the perfume river several miles upstream from the citadel. Each tomb reflected in its architecture the monarch’s politics and personality. Tu Duc (1848-83) whose tomb is the most aesthetically unusual was renowned for his poetic and artistic temperament. The tomb of Khai Dinh (1916-25) contains numerous motifs drawn from western influences, at a time when the king was a mere figurehead in the French colony. With its stone mandarins, horses and life-size elephants, this is the most famous of al the tombs. Duc Duc’s tomb is the closest of all the royal tombs to the city of Hie. Gia Long’s tomb on the north bank of the perfume river has a majestic simplicity as it rests amongst a picturesque 2,875 ha of parkland and forest. Minh Mang’s (1820-41) tomb, 11km from Hue, was built in an elaborately Chinese style to reflect his fascination with Confucian administrative methods. The 3m high enclosures includes a grand court with stone staircases leading to a two-tiered terrace which in turn leads to the Square Pavilion and stone stele. The kings were not buried under the granite tablets erected to proclaim their titles and exploits. To prevent exhumation by usurping dynasties, the actual burial places were kept secret and remain unknown to this day.

Thien Mu Pagoda
Thien Mu Pagoda on the banks of the Perfume River is famous for its seven-story Phuoc Duyen tower. Emperor Thieu Tri built it in the 1840s, in which each of the seven tiers represents one of Buddha’s incarnations on arth. Two pavilions to each side respectively shelter a huge bell, cast in 1710, weighing over 200 kilos and said to be audible in the city, and a large stele erected in 1715 to record the history of Buddhism in Hue>

Hue Imperial Art Museum
Located at 3 Le Truc, (7.30-11am and 2-5pm; VND 30,000 approx) it has an interesting display of former royal paraphernalia and is housed in the stunning Long An Palace built in 1845 inside the Imperial city and moved to its present location in 1909 to become the National University Library before Khai Dinh turned it into a dynastic museum in 1923.

Revolutionary Museum
Opposite the Art Museum on le Truc Street. (Mon-Sat 7-10.30am and 1.30-4.30pm VND 22,000 approx.) Has a display of archaeological and ethnographic exhibits in the western building and to the east is the “Museum of the Resistance Against US invaders (1954-75) depicting Hue’s historical past.

Ho Chi Minh Museum
Although born near Vinh, uncle Ho spent 10 years at school in Hue (1895-1901 and 1906-1909) where his father worked as a civil mandarin. The small museum (7 Le Loi, Mon-Sat 8-11am and 2-5pm) presents these years in the context of the anti-French struggle and then takes the story on to Independence.

Thuan An Beach
Although not as spectacular as Danang’s China Beach, Thuan An, 14km from hue by road is nice enough and a pleasant cycle ride. En route you pass through Duong No village, 8km outside Hue where Uncle ho once lived with his father.

Demilitarised Zone (DMZ)
This refers to a zone five kilometres on either side of the Ben Hai River, which formed the line dividing North and South Vietnam at the 17th parallel following the Geneva agreement in 1954. It is an area that teems in contemporary history and historic sites which re predominantly clustered around the town of Dong Ha. A half-day tour along highway one is usually sufficient to cover the main sights.

Dong Ba Market
Located on Tran Hung Dao Street about 100m from Trang Tien Bridge, it is the biggest business centre in the region. All kinds of high quality goods and handicrafts made inside and outside the city can be found here, and it is best visited early in the morning.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bank: Vietcombank and ATM - Hoang Hoa Tham. Currency Exchange - Le Loi St., near No.18. Huong Giang Hotel or Century Hotel.

Restaurants: The most famous Hue dish is Banh Khoai, a small yellow crispy pancake made of egg and rice flour, fried up with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts and eaten with a special peanut and sesame sauce (nuoc leo) plus a vegetable accompaniment of star fruit, green banana, lettuce and mint. Banh Khoai Hanh (2 Nguyen Tri Phuong) opposite the Le Loi School cooks up some of the best Banh Khoai in town. Café No.3 (3 Le Loi) is a cheep and cheerful street side café. Huong Giang (51 Le Loi) is another favourite. Mandarin Café (12 Hung Vuong) is known on the backpacker trail, and has a selection of old photographs for sale. Song Huong Floating Restaurant is situated on the Perfume River between the Huong Giang Hotel and the old Clemenceau Bridge and serves good-value food with the best views in town. Paradise Garden is found on Nguyen Dinh Chieu (small street in front of the Morin Hotel). Lac Thien (6 Dinh Tien Hoang) offers Hue staples at reasonable price and is probably Hue’s friendliest and most interesting eatery. Tandoori House (10 Nguyen Tri Phuong) is a good-value Indian café serving decent vegetarian curries and Nan bread. For something more upmarket and memorable, try the Imperial banquet-Cost is about $10 for meal, music & royal fancy dress though it is advisable to book in advance, or the Perfume Riverboat with Hue traditional music & dinner – 80,000 VND. Per person. Again, must book in advance. For those who want to be daring and try something more traditional, head to Ly Lan’s snake wine bar (1 Nguyen Hue) where any aliment can be cured!

Nightlife and Entertainment: If you like your nightlife a little more upbeat head to the DMZ Bar (44 Le Loi) which is open late and is popular with travellers for beers, pool and dancing.

Shopping: The Dong Ba market is a huge covered market at the southeast corner of the citadel. Fruit, fish, vegetable vendors overflow into the surrounding spaces while in the downstairs hall you’ll find Hue’s contribution to the world of fashion, the poem conical hat. These look just like the normal conical hat but have a stencil, traditionally of a romantic poem, inserted between the palm fronds and only visible when held up to the light. The east end of Le Loi has become the main location for souvenir and craft shops.

Read more...

About This Blog

Friendly Vietnam

  © Blogger templates Newspaper III 2008

Back to TOP